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Or until I give up on the Modron maze which is impossible to finish as doors refuse to open so I can only go to places I've already been and which do nothing to help.

Grab a pencil and a piece of paper and just draw the maze chambers as you progress through it, marking where the 'real' and fake doors are.

When you die you should respawn at the contol room where you can ask the Modrons to create a new maze or to get back to Sigil.

Getting experience and some treasure but have not found what we all go to this maze to find.

Where am I supposed to go? Guides don't even agree on west, northwest, north or whatever.

Grimm, the reason why guides don't give you cardinal directions is that the Modron Maze is randomly generated. If you're hopelessly lost the best thing to do would be to take the advice of Valkir and Kmonster to reset the maze next time you die, then map it.

You can get more detailed information about the maze in the GB walkthrough at Planescape: Torment @ GameBanshee .